Online Patternmaking Classes
by Don McCunn

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Master Patterns

The Master Patterns need to be prepared for the design changes described in this section including the following.

  1. Remove Seam Allowances
  2. Use either the left or right side except for assymetrical designs.
  3. Combine the Upper and Lower Torso into a single file.
  4. Depending on the design, remove the ease.

About #2: It is better to use either the left or right side of Master Patterns to avoid inconsistent variations. Once the design is complete the opposite side is easy to create using the Mirror Function.

About #3: For designs such as the Princess Seam the Upper and Lower Torso patterns can be combined.

About #4: The Master Patterns include a basic fitting ease. If a different ease is to be used as described in Adding Ease, the existing fitting ease should be removed to avoid confusion.

One of the advantages of working in quarter scale is that the design lines can be moved over quarter-scale photos to verify placement. This is particularly true when you are creating Bespoke patterns. When you are creating RTW designs keep in mind the photograph will only provide an approximation of where the design lines will appear on any given body as shown in the Pattern Comparison file.

The front and back quarter-scale photos of Alex are included in a Studio file. The side is not included because the front and back are the principle areas where designs appear.

Photos of Alex

These instructions use the Master Patterns for the PGM Dress Form. Once the changes have been made, the patterns should be saved using a distinct filename to identify them as Master Patterns for both the Upper and Lower Torsos. For this video both the Seam Allowances and the Ease are removed.

* These PGM patterns are initially used for the Downloading Studio Files class.

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