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Computer Aided Pattern Design
by Don McCunn
Changing Pattern SizesContentsThe bone structure of bodies establish the width and height. The width of the torso is best determined by the width of the shoulders. The height of the torso is best found by the length of the spine as measured at center back. Soft tissue establishes the circumferences of the body as recorded by the bust, waist, and hip measurements. Changing the LengthChanging a pattern's length is one of the most obvious changes to make given that it is not unusual to see people shorter than 5 feet and taller than 6 feet. It is also common for torso lengths to vary within a given height. This is established by the Center Back's neck to waist measurement. Working with Lindsey her requirements are better suited to change the overall length of the shirt rather than just the length of the upper torso. This video demonstrates how that adjustment can be made. This video is for demonstration only. Lindsey's Proprietary Patterns are not included. |
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Altering RTW to MTMChanging widths and the length of a RTW pattern can be used to scale the pattern closer to the dimensions of a specific individual. This is referred to as Made-to-Measure, MTM. This only adjusts the measurements of the pattern, not the shape. To create a pattern that conforms to both the measurements and the contours of a body, a Bespoke pattern needs to be created as described in How to Make Sewing Patterns and Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale. The image below compares Ruby's Bespoke pattern that was achieved from an in-person fitting to the MTM pattern created from Vogue's 1004 Fitting Shell as shown in this video.  The width of the shoulders is used to adjust the width of the body. The Bust and Waist change the Side Seam to adjust for the circumference of the body. The Center Back is used to change the length of the pattern. The change in dimension is achieved using the Scaling Calculator.
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Changing the Swirly SkirtOne of the interesting patterns to come out of the 1970s is the Swirly Skirt. The shape of the skirt is not determined from Master Patterns but from an interesting geometric shape, the Fibonacci Spiral. On sewing forums women have described the difficulties they have trying to alter this pattern to their size. The techniques commonly used to alter a pattern simply do not work. Scaling offers the perfect solution for altering this pattern by adjusting the size of the waist and length of the skirt. While 70s styles might not be sought after these days, the skirt could be interesting for a young girl. Being that prepubescent girls are very close to the body shape of boys, this video shows how to change the Swirly Skirt from an adult size down to the size of the Logan Mini-Me who is a 10 year old boy.
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Copyright © 2024 by Donald H. McCunn
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