Working with Patterns

These instructions show how to work with three different types of Master Patterns: Bespoke, Ready-to-Wear (RTW), and Made-to-Measure (MTM).

Bespoke Patterns

The procedures for creating Bespoke Master Patterns are descibed in How to Make Sewing Patterns and related classes. They describe how to make Master Patterns based on measuring and fitting directly on the body whether it is a Do-It-Yourself (DIY) or two person process.

Creating Bespoke Master Patterns is also described in Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale. This book describes the process by Tracing Quarter Scale Photographs that do not require in-person contact. This process was used to create the patterns for the gentleman in Germany who has a 53" waist shown on pages 37 to 40. It can also be used to create DIY Master Patterns.

Ready-to Wear Patterns, RTW
RTW patterns are created to fit as many bodies as possible. The designer may never see the person who wears the resulting garment. Given that there is no such thing as a "standard" human body shape and size, the independent designer who wants to use Master Patterns to work from must select a body shape that is most appropriate for their particular market whether it is for the regular, junior, misses, petite, plus market, etc.

Given that Vogue has been creating RTW shapes since 1914 these instructions use Vogue's 1004 Size 14 Fitting Shell as a "standard" body. Both the quarter-scale Master Patterns and Mini-Me dress form are available for this body size and shape. In addition these instructions refer to Vogue's V9029 blouse pattern which was used as the "standard" for the RTW patterns I developed for Lindsey Watson, see RTW for Independent Designers.

Made-to-Measure Patterns, MTM
Using CAPD to create the RTW patterns for Lindsey I realized there was another option for creating a more fitted garment. Studio's scaling function makes it easy to change either the height or width of a pattern. This means an exisiting design for a RTW pattern can be scaled up or down to the size of the customer using a few standard measurements. This does not result in a pattern as accurate as a Bespoke pattern. But it can result in a more accurate fit than an unadjusted RTW pattern. This process can be used to change any RTW pattern for an improved fit.

Scaling Patterns

Scaling patterns is a task that needs to be performed for all patterns made using these instructions. The overall size of patterns is changed using a percentage as demonstrated in Scaling Patterns Down and Scaling Patterns Up. Another scaling function can be used to change a pattern's width, length, or both as demonstrated in Changing Pattern Sizes.

The table below indicates the percentage of change from one size pattern to another. For example quarter-scale patterns are frequently used for these classes. To change a full-size pattern to quarter scale, use 25%. To change a quarter-scale pattern to full size, use 400%. On occasion you might want to change a quarter-scale pattern to one-third size, use 133.3%. Or a one-third pattern to full size, 300%,

The process of scaling starts with the size of a pattern then compares it to the desired size. The Scaling Calculator appears in a pop-up window that allows values to be entered then calculates the percentage to be used by the Studio software. To change the width or length of a pattern, the existing length of the pattern is entered then the percentage is applied to determine the new length. Values must be entered as decimals not fractions.

See Also Scaling Patterns

1. Tracing for a Bespoke Master Pattern (5:53)

Bespoke Master Patterns can be created by tracing quarter-scale photographs of a person.

2. Scaling Patterns Down (5:25)

When starting from full-size RTW patterns, the patterns first need to be scaled down to quarter scale.

3. Removing Seam Allowances (5:51)

If the full-size RTW patterns include seam allowances, the seam allowances need to be removed.

4. Changing Pattern Sizes (2:12, 8:44, 2:46)

For RTW and MTM, the size of the patterns can be adjusted by scaling either the width, height or both. The side seams can be adjusted using bust, waist, and hip circumference measurements. Once a RTW design has been created, it can be quickly graded to different sizes using the scaling function.

5. Adding Ease (2:21, 3:51)

Ease needs to be established before patterns are scaled up to full-size.

6. Adding Seam Allowances (5:53)

Seam allowances for sewing quarter-scale patterns is different from the seam allowances for full-size patterns.

7. Pattern Layout (3:58)

Quarter-Scale patterns can be moved around inside a rectangle that indicates the width of the fabric to determine how much fabric will be required to create a garment. The layout of the patterns is easily adjusted according to specifics of the fabric and design.

8. Scaling Patterns Up (9:10, 3:26)

Once the quarter-scale design has been created, the patterns need to be scaled up to full size. This can be done either with a Desktop printer or using the Cameo Pro's 24" cutting mat. As can be seen from the lengths of the first (9:10) video and the second (3:26) scaling up using the Cameo Pro takes considerably less time.