Computer Aided Pattern Design
by Don McCunn

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Grading Collars

The neck is not proportional to the bust circumference. For example in a given size the Bust measurement may vary up to 4" but the neck only varies approximately an inch. What is important is that the length of the collar must be adjusted to the length of the neckline.

The approach to grading described here changes the width of the shoulders which only slightly changes the width of the neck. Too ensure an accurate fit it is important to measure the length of the neckline from Center Front to Center Back and adjust the collar to the correct length. The measurements shown below are for the quarter-scale patterns with the Medium size being 14. Most collar designs can be adjusted by moving the Center Back line in or out to the appropriate length.

Graded NecklineMinusMedium NecklineEqualsChange to CB
Size 82.061"-2.123" =-0.062"
Size 162.186" -2.123" =0.063"
Current Size________-________=________

Important Note: In the video you will notice after the top collar was mirrored the Center Back lines did not quite match. This is because either the line for the top or bottom of the collar extended slightly out from Center Back. When the collar was mirrored, it was done from the extended line not the Center Back line.

Summary of Steps

  1. Select the Collar.
  2. Ungroup the pattern
  3. Delete one half of the collar.
  4. Open the Transform Panel.
  5. Select the Move Tab.
  6. Enter the change to Center Back.
  7. Select the Center Back line.
  8. Click the left or right arrow based on whether the change is smaller or larger than the current location.
  9. Adjust the top and bottom collar lines to meet the new Center Back position.
  10. Select the Replicate Panel
  11. Click the appropriate Mirror icon to create a symmetrical collar.
  12. Verify the length of the collar is the same as the Neckline of the torso.
  13. Group the pattern.
  14. Save the pattern with a filename that indicates the size.

See Also


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