Computer Aided Pattern Design
by Don McCunn

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Grading Sleeves

Sleeve Caps are used to attach sleeves to the Armscye of the torso. While fitted sleeves ease the top of the Sleeve Cap into the Armscye to shape the sleeve over the top of the arm, RTW sleeves do not need this ease because the Armscye has been moved past the shoulder, see Selective Fitting. The length of the Sleeve Cap should be the same as the Armscye. See Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale page 17 for more on this fitting issue.

Below is Vogue's Grade Chart used to grade a sleeve. The video shows grading from size 14 to 8.

SizeBiceps/4Biceps%
83.011"92%
103.077"94%
123.175"97%
143.273"0%
163.437"105%

Summary of Steps

  1. Select the sleeve pattern.
  2. Open the Transform Panel.
  3. Select the Scale Tab.
  4. Verify that the dimensions are Unlocked.
  5. Adjust the width of the patterns using the Biceps% from the Grading Chart.
  6. Verify the length of the Sleeve Cap is the same as the Armscye.
  7. Save the pattern with a filename indicating the size.

See Also


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Copyright © 2025 by Donald H. McCunn