Grading Charts

Given that clothing manufacturers maintain their Size Charts as proprietary information a primary resource for independent designers is to use the charts from the National Bureau of Standards which are available online at no charge.

The National Bureau of Standards guidelines were made as a commercial standard and were even updated in 1970. But they were eventually degraded to a voluntary standard until it was abolished altogether in 1983 favoring the manufacturer's desire to size garments independently from a standard used by their competitors.

• CS-151-50 - Infants, Babies, Toddlers and Children's clothing (1951)
• CS 215-58 - Women's Clothing (1958)
• PS 36-70 - Boys Clothing (1971)
• PS 42-70 - Women's Clothing (1971)
• PS 45-71 - Young Men's clothing (1971)
• PS 54-72 - Girls Clothing (1972)

In the 1990s the private organization ASTM International started to release its own recommended size carts which can be purchased.

• ASTM D5585-21
  Adult Female Misses Figure Type, Size Range 00-20 ($69.00)
• ASTM D6829-02
  Measurements for Juniors, Sizes 0-19 ($73.00)
• ASTM D6240-98
  Adult Male, Chest Size Range 34-52 Short, Regular, and Tall ($69.00)
• ASTM D6960-04 - Women's Plus sizes (Free)

A Comparison

When creating a Grading Chart, a comparison of charts can be helpful. The chart below shows the percentages for the Bust and Shoulder Widths for 5 different sizes for a Misses chart. The percentages marked with an astericks are for sizes given in half inches. The percentages were extrapolated between the larger and smaller sizes.

Most of the percentages are within one percentage point. The main difference is the Shoulder Width for Vogue sizes for a 32" and 34" Bust. This indicates Vogue has opted for a larger Shoulder Width for these patterns.

About the Grading Charts

Two of the measurements are taken differently from the measurements described in How to Make Sewing Patterns. The charts do not include a Neck circumference measurement.

The Shoulder Width used in this approach to grading is taken from the top of one shoulder across the body to the other side. The government charts use a measurement called "Cross-Back Width" and the ASTM uses "Across Back Shoulder." This measurement, as shown in the various charts, is taken lower down across the shoulder blades. What is important is that these measurements are taken consistently across all bodies. This way they can be used to show the percentage change for the various sizes.

The other measurement that is used differently for the PS 42-70 sizes is the Center Front instead of the Center Back. I chose to use the Center Back measurement because when the women in my class were taking the Center Front measurement they asked whether they should take it over a blouse or take off the blouse so the tape measure would fall between the breasts. The Center Back is taken down the spinal column and does not face this issue. The government charts label the Center Front measurement "Cervicale to Center Front at Waist" the ASTM uses "Char Back Waist Length."

While the full Size Charts use three dozen or more measurements, the grading technique described for these instructions requires only three measurements. The charts below extract the three measurements used for the grading technique used here.

Contents

PS 42-70 Charts

Junior Petite

Juniors

Misses Petite

Misses

Misses Tall

Women

Half Sizes

ASTM Charts

Misses Sizes - D5585-95

Women's Plus Sizes - D6960-04