CAPD for RTW

To develop RTW patterns changed for different sizes and designs I recommended using Silhouette America's free Studio Software. This software allows you to make your own patterns with very clear cut, easy to use functions as I describe in these CAPD classes. The software provides the functions necessary for complete control over the shape of your patterns and a scaling function for changing them to different sizes.

The screen shot above is of the Studio software for the Cameo Pro 24" by 24" cuttng mat. It shows Lindsey's intial medium size shirt pattern in quarter scale with patterns for two different collars, sleeves, and cuffs. The rectangles on the left are for laying out the desired pattern pieces to be scaled up to full size using the following sequence:

1. Move the desired pattern pieces to the layout rectangle.
2. Select to "Group" the layout rectangle.
3. Select the "Center on Cutting Mat" button.
4. Select the "Scale to 400%" function.
5. Select the "Send" function to print and cut the paper pattern or cut the fabric to be used.

Note that the print-and-cut equipment does not cut fabric on the fold so patterns are included for both the left and right sides. This can be done quickly using the "Mirror" function. Some of our initial work included the following which illustrates steps important in creating RTW patterns:

Collaborating with Lindsey on her pattern needs has been a perfect opportunity for me to research and study how to create RTW patterns. And in Fashion & Costume in Quarter Scale I have instructions for how to create a Bespoke fit by Tracing Quarter-Scale Photographs. This can be useful for bodies that are too different for RTW or MTM patterns such as the gentleman with a 53" waist which I describe in my book. The process does not require an in-person fitting. The entire process can all be done through photographs.

Lindsey is giving me feedback on how the patterns are working for both her private clients and through her exclusive arrangement with Showgirls Apparel who travel to the events where these shirts are sold. These CAPD Classes directed at RTW and MTM are a direct response to our work together.

These classes will hopefully be useful to other Independent Designers as well. For those designers interested in giving it a try, I do have free Studio files that have been derived from the Vogue-14 fitting shell (V1004). They do not require the Silhouette America's print-and-cut equipment, just a regular desktop printer. To take a trial run, download the free Silhouette America Studio program then download the zip file.

The download includes five Studio files in a Zip folder. They are an upper & lower torso, with a waist to floor extension for creating a Mini-Me, see Making a Mini-Me. The Master Patterns include one file for the upper torso and one for the lower torso. See Downloading Files.