RTW to MTM to Bespoke

Designs can be classified as having three degrees of fit: RTW, MTM, and Bespoke. A RTW fit can be changed to MTM using 5 measurements of an individual. The procedure for doing this is described in Altering RTW to MTM. This changes the dimensions of the patterns but not the shape based on the contours of the body.

In the image above the red is the Bespoke fit, the green is the MTM, and the blue is the RTW. Notice the MTM is different from the Bespoke in several ways.

1. The slope of the shoulder seams are different.
2. The armscye curves for the back are fairly similar but not the front.
3. The Above the Bust dart is larger and lower in the MTM than the Bespoke.
4. The front side seam is slightly closer to Center Front.

This MTM fit can be changed to a Bespoke fit when the designer can do an in-person fitting of the client to adjust the patterns to the shape of the body. I use this definition of Bespoke out of deference to the law in France that says a firm can only use the term "haute couture" if it designs made-to-order garments for private clients with one or more fittings. Wikipedia

In How to Make Sewing Patterns the instructions for a Bespoke fit take up half the book to create a Master Pattern (aka Sloper) that can then be used to create a design. Clearly going from a MTM to a Bespoke fit is much faster and easier. Here are my recommendations for achievinga Bespoke fit.

1. Create a MTM pattern as described in Altering RTW to MTM.
2. Add generous seam allowances when cutting the MTM pattern.
• 3/4" to the Armscye.
• 1.5" to the Shoulder and Side Seams.
• 1" to any Princess Seams.
3. Machine baste the mock-up using the longest possible stitch.
4. Use the MTM pattern to create a mock-up of the design by basting the fabric to be used in the finished garment.
5. DO NOT sew in the sleeve. Adding the sleeve for this initial fitting makes it difficult to adjust the patterns for the body.
6. Have the client wear the undergarments they will be wearing with the garment.
7. Put the mock-up on the client.
8. Verify the fit of the Shoulder Seams. If the shape is okay, simple indicate the location of the top of the shoulder.
9. If necessary, adjust the shaping of the Princess and Side Seams.
10. Adjust the fit of the Armscye.

There are at least three ways any necessary changes to the locations of seams can be marked: use a Marks-Be-Gone pen, indicate locations with pins, use long hand basting stitches in contrasting thread.

Hopefully minimal adjustments will need to be made. If the fit of Steps 7 and 8 needs adjusting, it may be necessary to unbaste the seams and repin them in place. Sometimes it may be helpful to have the client wear the mock-up both right side out and wrong side out during the process.

Given that the MTM pattern should be close to the size and shape of the body, only minimal adjustments should be required.