Computer Aided Pattern Design
by Don McCunn

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Initial RTW Design

A RTW design needs to start with patterns in one size. Medium is a good initial choice. This design can be created starting with a Master Pattern or changed from an existing design. Obviously the choice for a design has infinite possiblities.

Lindsey's Shirt

For Lindsey's shirt I did not want to use any of the Master Patterns for the 13 models I could choose from because I can not think of any one of them being a "general" body shape. I suggested that Lindsey find a Vogue pattern that was the closest to the look she wanted. After all Vogue has been working with "general" body shapes since 1914. She chose Vogue's V9029 shirt.

Vogue-V9029

We discussed the changes that would be required to make this pattern appropriate for her design needs and came up with the following.

  1. The Collar needed to be 2.5" high.
  2. The Center Front opening needed to be changed for a zipper with a "button" overlap that could be embellished.
  3. The body needed to be changed from a Princess Seam to the shoulder to one to the armscye.
  4. The body needed to be reduced to 0 ease.
  5. The sleeve need to be straight at the cuff instead of gathered.
  6. The cuff need to be increased to 3".

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