Computer Aided Pattern Design
by Don McCunn

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CAPD Essentials

Contents

  1. CAD Software
  2. Predetermined Body Shapes
  3. Master Patterns

CAD Software

These classes demonstrate CAPD using the free Studio software that can be downloaded from Silhouette America. This is not labeled as a CAD program. But it has all the necessary CAD functions for pattern design.

Studio Software

The Studio software requires a desktop computer. It can not be used on chromebooks, tablets, or mobile devices. It requires the following operating system: PC (Windows 10 - Windows 11) or Mac (MacOS 11 and higher).


Predetermined Body Shapes

These classes use two predetermined body shapes: a wine bottle and a Mini-Me of the PGM-8 commercial dress form. To follow the instructions in these classes, you will need to create these two body shapes. The Studio files are in zip folders which need to be download to access the files.

Wine Bottle and Carboard   PGM-8 Dress Form and Mini-Me

The Wine Bottle

If you do not have an appropriate wine bottle, the shape can be made by cutting and taping cardboard. The pattern for the cardboard bottle is available as a PDF file and a Studio file. The Studio file is downloaded in a zip folder which will need to be opened. The instructions for making these bottles can be found in "Creating a Cardboard Bottle."

Pattern for Cardboard Bottle

PGM-8 Mini-Me

The PGM-8 Mini-Me is made from poster board and Scotch tape. The patterns are available as a PDF File and four Studio files in a zip folder. The instructions for making this Mini-Me are in the "Making a Mini-Me" PDF file. The instructions are taken from the pages of Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale.

PGM-8 Mini-Me Upper Torso PGM-8 Mini-Me Lower Torso
Upper Torso Lower Torso
PGM-8 Mini-Me Lower Torso Plus PGM-8 Mini-Me Waist-to-Floor Extension
Lower Torso Plus Waist-to-Floor Extension

The Lower Torso Plus is designed for prototyping skirts. The waist is extended above the natural waist level so that prototypes of skirts can be placed on the form without a closing device such as a zipper. Both Lower Torso patterns stop just below hip level. To create a full length form, tape the Waist-to-Floor extension to the bottom of either of the two Lower Torso forms.


Master & Fitting Shell Patterns

Master Patterns for the wine bottle and PGM-8 Mini-Me are available for downloading in the Studio file format. The concept of a Master Pattern is to show the three-dimensional shape of a body in two dimensions. When the Master Pattern does not have seam allowances, it is used to create designs. When a Master Pattern includes seam allowances, it is referred to in these instructions as a Fitting Shell indicating it is ready to be sewn.

Wine Bottle Master & Fitting Shell Patterns

The Master Pattern without seam allowances is used in the online class Pattern Design Activities for Kids to practice pattern design techniques with paper and tape so no sewing is required. The pattern with seam allowances can be used to create designs using that class's Hand or Machine Sewing Technques.

Wine Bottle Master Pattern Wine Bottle Master Pattern for Sewing

PGM-8 Fitting Shell Patterns

Master Patterns frequently do not include seam allowances and are for just one half the front and one-half the back. When seam allowances are added to a Master Pattern, it becomes the patterns for a Fitting Shell. The Fitting Shells in these instructions are prepared so they can be immediately used with print-and-cut equipment to cut fabric leaving only the sewing to be done by hand. Using CAPD techniques, Fitting Shells can easily be changed back to Master Patterns. The Fitting Shells for the PGM-8 Mini-Me include one file for the Upper Torso and one for the Lower Torso.

PGM-8 Upper Torso Master Pattern PGM-8 Lower Torso Master Pattern

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