Background

Computer-Aided Design (CAD) has been used in the fashion industry since the 70s. I have been using CAD for the illustrations of the patterns in my books since the turn of the century. But I felt that desktop equipment did not warrant its use for full scale patterns.

With the advent of the desktop print-and-cut equipment, such as that offered by Silhouette America and the introduction of my book Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale, my perspective has changed. I have had people ask me about how to design patterns using CAD. So I have decided to offer these classes describing how to do it.

While learning CAD in general can be intimidating, especially 3D applications, the CAD functions for creating patterns only require drawing and manipulating straight and curved lines in two-dimensions. After all fabric is two-dimensional so there is no need to learn all the specifics of 3D CAD and the huge number of applications that software has been designed for. Fortunately the free Studio software from Silhouette America, while not a CAD program, has all the necessary functions to design patterns.

About Pattern Design

Creating patterns requires first establishing the three-dimensional shape of the body as two-dimensional patterns known as Master Patterns (aka Slopers, or Blocks). This is done through careful fitting as described in my book and related classes How to Make Sewing Patterns. In Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale I introduce an approach to creating Master Patterns by Tracing Quarter-Scale Photographs. This approach eliminates the need for in-person fittings. Once these Master Patterns have been created, they can be used to create an unlimited number of designs requiring little if any additional fitting. While it is possible to create an unlimited number of designs, there are only a handfull of design techniques used to achieve this. It is not about how much you know but how you use what you do know.

About Pattern Design Classes

Over the years I have developed e-books and online classes about how to learn the pattern design techniques from predetermined body shapes. This makes it possible to explore design without first doing the fitting. These Computer Aided Pattern Design classes draw on the demonstrations of how to design patterns from these other classes but show them being done on a computer instead of using pencil and paper.

For my Introduction to Pattern Design class I use the shape of a wine bottle. There is an international standard for the shape and size of wine bottles. This shape is similar to the waist-to-hip reqion of women. I was very pleased with the creativity the students in my initial two classes demonstrated.

Then because I consider pattern design to be an easy process to learn, I created the website Pattern Design Activities for Kids. These classes demonstrate that pattern design techniques can be learned before a person knows how to sew. The designs are created by cutting paper into appropriate shapes and taping them together. I once again use the shape of a wine bottle. I did conclude these classes with the basic hand and machine sewing techniques needed to create designs in fabric.

While the wine bottle is somewhat similar to the shape of a woman's waist-to-hip region, the contour is the same all around the circumference. Human bodies are distinctly different in the front and back. In my Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale I include 18 different quarter-scale body shapes: the PGM commercial dress form, one derived from the Vogue fitting pattern, 13 women, 2 men, and a 10 year old boy. I call them Mini-Mes.

You can ask questions and share comments and designs related to CAPD in my Facebook group MakerSpace Pattern Designs. I like the concept of physical MakerSpaces which are appearing in libraries, schools, and other environments. These spaces are about providing equipment and space for people who want to engage in crafts but may not have the necessary equipment or space to pursue their creative interests. Some of the MakerSpaces may include any of the following: sewing machines, computers, printers, and/or print-and-cut equipment.