Computer Aided Pattern Design
by Don McCunn

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Pattern Grading

The approach to grading described here is based on my research for creating Bespoke Master Patterns by Tracing Quarter-Scale Photographs described in Fashion & Costume Design in Quarter Scale.

To apply this to grading, the width is determined by the bone structure of the shoulders and length of the body is determined by the spine from the neck to the waist or floor. Once this is determined, the overall size of the body is adjusted at the side seam using the circumferences of the Bust, Waist, and Hips.

Given that RTW is not based on the body of an individual, the grading used here is based on the shapes that Vogue patterns uses including their V1009 Fitting Shell and V9029 Shirt pattern used to grade the RTW patterns for Lindsey.


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